If you are what you eat, I am everything.

Good evening, all! Do you know what’s nice about Black Friday? Stores and restaurants are actually open!

After a quick hotel breakfast, we made way to Bicentennial Park near the State Capitol Building. The park’s carillon played the Tennessee Waltz; peacefully carrying across the plaza to all passers-by.

I really enjoyed the sense of pride displayed in this park. Several small monuments showcased Tennessee’s contribution to WWII, the transformation from territory to statehood, even the timeline from 10,000 B.C. to now. Clearly inspired by the monuments back home in DC, this was a stop worth making.

Tennessee WWII memorial
Tennessee WWII memorial

Next to the park is the Nashville Farm Market, an indoor / heated outdoor market featuring local vendors and uniquely local food. Q enjoyed walking through the garden center while I hemmed and hawed over coffee. Neither of us bought anything (some Black Friday shoppers we are!), but definitely a place we’d like to come back to.

Who doesn’t?

“Onward!” shouted Quynh as we climbed in the RAV4. She had selected our next target: a coffee shop chain in the 12 South neighborhood, Frothy Monkey.

12 South is a cute neighborhood that has, for better or worse, been overrun by hipsters. This has brought an abundance of beards and boutique shops to the area, and murals on the buildings that set the scene for every Instagraminista’s next post. The coffee shop had a line out the door (I would find out why later), so coffee was abandoned for neighborhood sight-seeing.

Down a few stores is Imogene + Willie, a Nashville clothier housed in a 1950’s service station. Though the clothes felt solid, $265 for denim is about $200 more than I can justify. We left impressed with the merchandise (I can see why their jeans are raved about) but ultimately bewildered that enough people purchase to make the business viable.

Not my photo! Photo by Imogene & Willie

As we bounced from store to store Quynh began to fall in love with the myriad yoga studios here- 3 on one block! We found a few murals, explored White’s Mercantile (purveyor of US Made and Southern Made goods), and enjoyed lunch at Burger Up.

Found near a restaurant dumpster.
Caught this couple almost holding hands

Lunch was delicious, as burgers with fried eggs often are. This restaurant makes their aioli and Jack Daniels maple ketchup in house, and it’s so good: we bought some. Is it worth 8/10 dollars per bottle? Time will tell, but in the moment: YES!

The Woodstock Burger (somewhere under the egg, promise.) at Burger Up, 12 South

Full of burgers and beer, we jumped across town to the West Nashville / Nations neighborhood to find a store specializing in ethically made products for Q. The store is small and honestly, shopping with me in tow is like hunting with the game warden. I saw myself out and over to a table at, you guessed it– The Frothy Monkey!

🐒

I now understand why the line was out the door. This “coffee shop” also serves beer and wine all day, as well as a full breakfast menu. I enjoyed my Irish coffee, caught up on the day’s news, and enjoyed a bit of people watching. Fact: the two barista I saw looked like Zoey Deschanel and Woody Allen. Shoulda grabbed a picture!

Spotted behind The Frothy Monkey

Folks, in case you’ve not noticed: all we do is eat and sleep while on holiday! I promised Quynh we’d go to a local vegetarian restaurant for dinner, but we’d have to clear some room first. We parked in Downtown Nashville and walked around a bit to burn off the day’s grazings. Some of this downtown reminded me of Philly, then you get to the honky tonks and you are definitely in Nashville. We missed a drunken performance from Kid Rock by six hours, bummer!

Spotted in a downtown shopping arcade.

Q’s vegetarian choice is a recently relocated local favorite, The Wild Cow (or Mad Cow as I remembered it). We lucked out and got sat next to a couple of regulars who had, uh, enjoyed everything the bar had to offer. Great folks who gave solid recommendations for dinner as well as where to buy good beer for the trip back home. The food was great, but neither of us finished… How could we? All we do is eat!

I write this lying on the couch struggling to live, my stomach stuffed to the brim. Tomorrow we’ll be checking out and hitting the last few bits of Nashville before starting the trek back to Maryland. I have a few more boxes to check before we go, but so far this visit has me wanting to come again.

Until tomorrow!

No plan survives first contact…

Operation Random City is on! After a white knuckle overnight Odyssey, full of gale force winds and swaying tractor-trailers, we pulled safely into the parking lot at Hyatt Place Nashville Airport. Though windy and dark, I-81’s isolation from civilization lent us a beautiful view of the stars and an almost story book view of sleeping town’s streets lit up in wait.

With barely a half-night’s sleep between us, we dove into bed at 7:30 and slept like it was our job.

Quick note about our hotel: Q picked this hotel from Costco’s travel services because they had a great price and a great location (and, you know, COSTCO!). I’ve never been to a Hyatt property, but the décor is modern and thoughtfully layed out with amenities that aren’t half-assed attempts at a renovation. I’ll post more on this later, but so far a fan!

What was intended to be a two hour nap turned into a five hour refresher. Since most everything is closed on Thanksgiving day, we ventured over to Nashville’s #1 attraction: The Parthenon. What we didn’t account for was the park being under renovation to reposition a monument and make the park pollinator friendly! Aish…. While we didn’t get to appreciate [what will eventually be] the splendor of this park, we did get to enjoy the detail and artistry of the Parthenon’s exterior.

Nashville’s Parthenon. Not pictured: EVERYTHING under renovation 😫
My man on the right is about to have a bad time (horse hoof)
“What sharp teeth you have, Grandma…”

Our Tenne-Greco excursion ended and nect began our search for food. Neither of us had eaten anything but kimbap for the last 15 hours. Now, folks– I had always figured DC was the same as anywhere with people staying open year ’round to feed the masses. Apparently Nashville is a bit more traditional. Thanksgiving in Nashville means almost everything that isn’t a chain (and even most chains) were closed. Thanksgiving dinner was looking endangered.

Of the five restaurants we called, zero were open. With Trip Advisor guiding us, we drove around the neighborhoods looking for open restaurants, sadly to no avail. This led to a fairly non-traditional leap: Indian (Asian, not indigenous). We showed up to Sindoore just as they opened and feasted on bird, veggie, potato, and bread; Thanksgiving was saved!

This pilgrim ate with the Indians.

There’s a saying in conflict that goes “No plan survives first contact…” which means no matter how well you plan, something will go awry. Things we learned today:

  1. Overnight driving is cool… if you’re both well-rested from the onset.
  2. Kimbap is the best road trip food ever.
  3. Nashville is not D.C. and most restaurants are not open on Thanksgiving.
  4. I have located all the hot chicken places I want to try, now I need a bigger stomach!

Edit: We found warmer weather, too! Let’s hear it for a technicality!

Thanksgiving Road Trip!

Hey, everyone! Quynh and I are readying up the wagons for a Thanksgiving pilgrimage to Nashville, TN in search of warmer weather and sights unseen. What’s in Nashville, you wonder? I haven’t a clue. 

Things I know about Nashville:

  • Nashville hot chicken sandwiches?
  • Dukes of Hazzard Museum (Though it took place in Georgia and filmed in CA!)
  • Food hub of the American South
  • There is a place called Santa’s Pub that is a double-wide trailer with a dude dressed like Santa selling beer out of his fridge. This stop will be a priority.

We’ve got a new set of tires, a fresh oil change, kimbap, a playlist full of K-drama soundtracks, and 4 days to burn. Stay tuned!

If you have any suggestions on things to see or do in such a short time (Santa’s Pub, OBVIOUSLY!) please don’t be shy!

Screenshot 2019-11-26 at 16.38.30
Taking bets on when Q falls asleep…

Hà Nội Round Two: Day 1

Quỳnh and I returned to Hà Nội for Tết 2019. Visiting for Tết, as I would come to learn, is completely different from visiting any other time of year. Businesses close for the week, streets are empty (because the businesses are closed), and every sign and advertisement is wishing you “Chúc mừng năm mới!”

Ngày 1 / Day 1

3 airports, 8 in-flight movies (New York to Korea without sound), and 21 hours in the air and I finally land at Nội Bài airport. One might wonder as to why, with such an itinerary, I would watch movies without sound. Dear readers, the answer is simple: I had my headphones plugged into wrong jack.

As I (and consequently the fella next to me) learned, the headphone jack is not standardized across manufacturers. Sitting in the middle I had a jack to both my left and my right, so I picked based on my last flight. I received the in-flight announcements, and intermittent sound that didn’t match up with what I was viewing. Of course, that’s because I was listening to whatever the guy next to me was playing!

Well, by this time I had forgotten about the jack to my left and the guy to my right wasn’t saying anything so I figured perhaps I just had a busted screen. After those movies I’m not any closer to being a lip reader, but I’m muuuuch better at making a narrative!

C’est la vie.

I landed at Nội Bài, greeted with that familiar humidity and men in green uniforms. At the customs line I figured I would try the Vietnamese I’d been practicing all month. I approached the officer and, beaming with pride, hit him with the clearest Vietnamese I could muster. He smiled and said nothing, looked over my passport, stamps me, and says “…. đội mũ…” I had missed the first part of what he said, but I understood mũ (hat) but doi? I thought “doi” meant hungry! Oh no! So I did like any foreigner would do: Smiled and laughed. I know he said something about my hat– my inner optimist thinks he liked my hat, loved it even. As it turns out, the Vietnamese have three words for wear. He used one of the two I didn’t know. Since I missed the first part of his sentence, my memory shall always be that he liked my hat 🙂

I found my luggage, walked into the busy arrivals area where mom & Quynh awaited me.

One happy dude with his two favorite ladies. Not pictured: Sweet 80’s Viet jams on the radio.

To make things easier, we booked an Airbnb through a friend and stayed in the Nghia Tan neighborhood of Hanoi. Our homestay, Hanoi 1991, was clean, fun, and perfectly located. As I arrived around lunch, mom made a delicious multi-plate meal (all vegetarian) and watched us dig in.

Mom’s “Welcome home!” meal. If I could cook half as good as she, this would be Nha Hang Really Fat Joe’s.

 

 

 

Mom’s banquet included Tết-staple Bánh Chưng (sticky rice cake), braised radish and vegan Viet ham, bún (rice noodle), mushroom pate, and toast! Now, no meal in Hà Nội is eaten properly unless you’re on some kind of children’s furniture- so we busted out the tiny blue plastic table that would be the site of every home cooked meal in the house.

Quỳnh warned me we had a lot of folks to see today. Feeling the onset of food coma rapidly approaching, I teased my body with a quick nap and a hot shower. Within two hours of lunch, we were off to meet Ông Hùng (Grandpa) in Mai Dịch.

Dad spruced up the house with a bit of peach blossom for Tet.

 

His smile wide, “Xin chao!” passes his lips with a hug following close behind. He asks me a question as he surreptitiously lights his cigarette. (His granddaughter has been lecturing him about smoking)

“Coffee or tea?”

Not one to wait for the indecisive, Ông brings me instant coffee and readies tea. You know, just in case.

Visiting Ông is always a good time. Smiles and laughter come easily, wine and tea flow freely. The unmistakable aroma of Vinataba cigarettes fills the air and in a flash every memory of our previous visit passes before me.

Though we expected to have a meal with the Mai Dịch family, Dad was out in the province and Co Xuyen was teaching. We opted instead to enjoy a table full of Tết snacks and bring each other up to speed on the goings on of the last month. As cigarette number two folded in the ashtray, we saw ourselves out and headed to Grandma’s for dinner.

Readers, in case you don’t know: Tết is a holiday where you are obliged to go around to visit everyone you know to wish them well. With family you’ll eat meals and in between meals you’ll go “Chúc Tết” (read: well wishing).  During said well-wishing, you will be watered and fed (sometimes liquored) regardless of your stomach’s capacity. My advice? Make it work!

Grandma lives in a flat down an alley across from Hồ Chí Minh’s mausoleum. Many of the alleys in this area look identical. My landmark here is a street vendor selling Bia Hanoi and cigarettes. Quynh told me once that this same vendor has been there since she was a kid– I hope this vendor is hear for a while because without her I’m lost.

The alleyway to Grandma’s house. You know the way, right??

When we arrived, Grandma and Dì Trang had cooked their butts off. In typical Joe and Q fashion, we were a bit late (eek!) but everyone was lighthearted and glad to see us. My cousins Tú and Vũ were there and seemingly tuned into grown men in just two years! Tú looks like a Viet rock star. Honestly, I’m envious of his look– I look like Gomer Pyle and he could be Viet John Stamos (90’s John Stamos, of course).

Sisters Bông and Ỉn (pet names for kids) also grew up overnight. Both had been so small only 20 months ago, now they were walkin’, talkin’ people!

Dinner was had with everyone gathered around the tatami mat eating and talking. Though I was full to the gills with airplane food, lunch, beer, and tea; the food was too yummy to say no! Finishing dinner, I listened intently (but none-the-less confusedly) to the conversation. I didn’t understand much of it, but basically everyone was nominating me to get Grandma to come upstairs and take a group picture. It took a fair amount of begging, some butchered Viet, and a lot of cramming but we got a great picture in the end.

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Left to right: Chu Hai, Bong, Di Trang, Di Saboche, Mom, In, Grandma, Vu, Me, Tu, Quynh

Mom, Q, and I headed back to the home-stay and ended the night with some flower gelatin mom bought (yes, more food!). It might be the food, or the dimly lit room, or the occasional scooter passing within inches of the door, but it hits me that truly I’m back in Hà Nội. It’s hot, it’s noisy, and it’s polluted. Traffic is crazy and I’m sleeping on a bamboo mattress. I love it.

Next time: Day 2!